Acclimation:

Acclimate sealed cartons 48+ hours at normal room conditions before install.

Pro tip: If boxes have been stored in a cold truck or warehouse below 50°F, let them sit in the install room for 24 hours before cutting. Rigid-core planks tolerate temperature change better than wood, but extreme cold can make the click-lock edges brittle during installation.

Subfloor flatness:

Subfloor must be dry, sound, flat to 3/16-inch over 10-foot radius. Concrete fully cured.

Pro tip: Installing over existing tile? Flatness alone isn’t enough — every tile must still be firmly bonded to the subfloor. Tap each tile with a hard object and listen: a solid thud means good adhesion, a hollow sound means the tile has released from the thinset. Loose tiles flex under foot traffic, and that movement transfers up through the SPC — click-lock seams crack within 1-2 years. Re-bond any hollow-sounding tiles (injection epoxy through a drilled hole) or remove and re-set them before the SPC goes down. If more than ~20% of tiles sound hollow, pull the whole tile floor and start from the slab.

Moisture testing (concrete):

Test concrete subfloors per ASTM F2170 (RH) or ASTM F1869 (calcium chloride) before install.

Pro tip: ASTM F2170 in-situ RH is the gold standard test, but the number you want is lower than most installers think. Manufacturers commonly cap at 80-90% RH, but slabs hovering at 85% can still cause long-term gasket and adhesive issues. If your slab tests above 80% RH, slow down and investigate the source before scheduling install — high readings rarely fix themselves.

Moisture barrier (concrete subfloors):

Below/on-grade concrete: install 6-mil polyethylene moisture barrier with 6-8″ sealed-tape lap joints.

Pro tip: We recommend 6-mil polyethylene vapor barrier over every concrete subfloor regardless of test results. Seasonal moisture shifts, future plumbing leaks, and unseen slab cracks mean a clean moisture test today doesn’t guarantee a dry subfloor in five years. 6-mil poly is $30-50 for a whole room — inexpensive protection. Overlap seams by 6-8 inches, seal with waterproof tape, run 2-4 inches up the walls (hidden by baseboard). This is industry-standard per NWFA and what we’d do in our own home.

Underlayment (do not replace the attached pad)

IXPE/EVA acoustic pad pre-attached — do not add underlayment beneath floor.

Pro tip: Customers sometimes ask about adding a thicker pad under Conquest 20MIL for more softness. Don’t. Conquest 20MIL ships with a 1.5mm IXPE acoustic pad already factory-attached to the SPC core — this is the only approved underlayment, and adding any second pad creates an unstable stack-up that causes click-lock seam failure over time. The warranty specifically voids structural-integrity coverage if a non-manufacturer pad is used.

Installation method:

Floating click-lock per Unilin Angle-Angle method. Maintain 3/8″ expansion gap at all walls and transitions.

Pro tip: Follow manufacturer procedure to the letter — this changes what happens when a warranty claim gets filed. When the manufacturer sends a licensed flooring inspector, what they investigate depends on what the install looks like. On a professionally installed floor, the inspector is looking for material defects — manufacturing problems the brand is responsible for. On a floor showing signs of non-professional installation (rigid stagger pattern, missing expansion gaps, skipped moisture readings), the inspector is looking for installation errors — problems the installer is responsible for. Same physical issue, completely different warranty outcome. Professional install puts the burden of proof on the manufacturer; amateur install puts it on you.

Radiant heat compatibility:

Hydronic radiant systems compatible up to 85°F (29°C) surface. Increase temperature gradually after install.

Pro tip: Turn the heating system on at least two weeks before installation to purge slab moisture. After installation, raise temperature in 5°F increments per day back to operating level. Never go from room-temp to full heat in one day — thermal shock can compromise the click-lock edges and 1.5mm IXPE acoustic pad adhesion.

Daily maintenance:

Sweep or vacuum daily. Damp-mop with vinyl cleaner. Steam mops allowed at lowest power, 5-min max per spot.

Pro tip: Use a cleaner specifically labeled for luxury vinyl or SPC — Bona Pro Series Luxury Vinyl Floor Cleaner works well. Avoid ‘mop and shine’ products that leave a film; they trap dirt and dull the Ceramic Bead finish over time.

What to avoid:

Avoid abrasive cleaners, bleach, ammonia, wax, oil-soaps. Do not drag furniture. Avoid latex/rubber-backed mats.

Pro tip: Steam mops are the #1 warranty-void cause on Paradigm floors — Paradigm’s master warranty explicitly denies coverage for any damage caused by steam cleaners, and the moisture/heat breaks down the adhesives in the plank construction. Customers sometimes say ‘but it’s waterproof’ — the core is waterproof; the seams and adhesives are not designed for pressurized hot water.

Furniture and pet protection:

Use felt protectors under furniture legs. Wide non-marking casters for rolling chairs. Walk-off mats at exterior doors.

Pro tip: Before install, if you have pets, pay attention to the finish grade on the plank you’re buying. Not all SPC finishes are equal — a Ceramic Bead or aluminum-oxide-enhanced finish is what handles dog nails, cat claws, and daily paw traffic without visible scratching over 5+ years. Entry-level SPC with a standard UV-cure finish scratches noticeably under the same pet traffic in 1-2 years. The finish is the wear difference customers actually feel — not the wear-layer thickness number. For pet households: Ceramic Bead minimum.

UV exposure (rooms with many windows):

Manufacturer spec: SPC core is UV-stable; no warranty restriction on direct-sun exposure.

Pro tip: Pair with light-filtering window film for direct-sun rooms — color holds true under typical daylight, but extended south-facing exposure on any floor benefits from UV-mitigation. The film approach also protects nearby furniture and area rugs.