Factory finished flooring

(also called ‘prefinished’) is just that: flooring with the finishing layer of stain and wear-protection applied at the factory. With unfinished, or site finished flooring, this finish is applied at the installation site. There are advantages and disadvantages to each.

With factory finished flooring, what you see is what you get. There is a wide, but not unlimited, selection of wood species, stains and protective coats.

Your options are far greater with site finished wood: you can select almost any wood species, apply any stain, and decide for yourself what protective coating to use. This makes it much easier to match existing flooring elsewhere in the building, or to install a floor that blends in well with existing furniture and decor.

A factory finish is usually more durable, with aluminum oxide urethane coatings applied and dried in a controlled factory environment. By comparison, site finished floors typically receive 3-4 coats of polyurethane that are applied and allowed to cure by air drying.

Engineered wood flooring

that is constructed with a relatively thin wear layer (4mm or less), and that is not intended to be refinished multiple times, is usually sold with a factory finish.

Factory finished flooring is more expensive to purchase, but easier, quicker and less expensive to install. Sanding site finished wood will always result in some dust. The application of the finish can leave a residual odor in the air, and take hours, or even days to dry in between coats. By contrast, factory finished floors are ready to go as soon as they are installed.

Factory finished floors usually have bevels, which are needed to assure there are no edges from one plank rising higher than the adjacent plank, but site finished flooring allows for straight edges. Read more about edges and bevels below.

To understand flooring edges and bevels, it is useful to consider the traditional hardwood floor: it is solid hardwood with square edges where the planks meet and it is site finished. Because of the square edges, the planks appear to fit together closely without noticeable lines between them.

Inevitably, some planks will be slightly thicker than adjacent planks, causing them to rise higher from the underlying subfloor. Any slight irregularities in the subfloor (a small bump or slope) will cause the same thing: the edge of one plank will stick up above the adjacent plank. The result is ‘raised edges’ (a condition called overwood), edges that could catch a sock or even cut a bare foot. However, the sanding that is always done as part of the site finishing process removes these edges.

With factory finished flooring, the planks are not sanded down after they are installed. Any raised edges where the planks meet are there to stay.

To address the problem of raised edges, the manufacturers of factory finished flooring create bevels on the surface where the planks meet. These bevels, and the finish applied over them at the factory, smooth out any sharp edges.

A full bevel is noticeable as a line between planks. It results in a more rustic look that is appreciated by some homeowners and disliked by others, in part because large bevels can collect dust.

In recent years, manufacturers of factory finished hardwood flooring have introduced smaller bevels, called ‘ eased edge ‘ or ‘ micro bevels’ which are less noticeable. It is even possible to get factory finished flooring with square edges, but these floors are always engineered wood planks that lock together and ‘float’ on the subfloor, rather than being nailed or glued down.

The Janka Scale is used to compare the hardness of different species of wood, and their resistance to scratches, dents and wear.

The softest and lightest wood, Balsa, has a Janka rating of 90. The hardest wood species is Lignum Vitae (4390), which has been exploited to the brink of extinction and is now an endangered species.

Red Oak, the most commonly used species for flooring in the United States, has a Janka rating of 1290 – and this is sometimes used as a benchmark. Hickory, with a Janka rating of 1820, is 41% harder than Red Oak.

Some species, such as Aspen (Janka rating of 350), White Pine (420) and Chestnut (540) are too soft to be used for hardwood flooring.

The durability of flooring depends not just on the hardness of the wood, but also upon the finish.

Janka ratings apply only to solid wood flooring; for engineered wood the hardness will depend on the species used for the veneer, the thickness of the veneer, the composition of the sub layers and the bonding process.

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Clear.  

Mostly heartwood, with very little of the color variations that are introduced by mixing heartwood and sapwood. Virtually no blemishes or character marks. Average board length at least 36″.

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Select.  

A combination of heartwood and sapwood, producing more color variation. Few and only very small character marks. Average board length at least 33″.

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No. 1 Common.  

Heartwood and sapwood combined, with more prominent color variations and character marks. Average board length at least 28″.

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No. 2 Common.  

Also called Rustic grade. Includes boards with considerable color variation and noticeable character marks. Average board length at least 24″.

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Solid hardwood floor planks are usually 3/4″ thick and have a wear layer above the tongue and groove of 1/4″. They can be sanded down and refinished between 4 and 7 times.

How often you will need to refinish the floor will depend on a great many factors, such as the floor traffic and wear, how often the floor is recoated, and the hardness of the wood. A typical homeowner sands and refinishes his hardwood floor once every 15 to 25 years.

A hardwood floor can usually be resanded so long as the remaining wear layer is at least 1/16″ thick throughout the surface.

Higher quality engineered floors come with a thick wear layer, sometimes as much as 5mm (3/16″) or more.

Lower quality engineered floors have a paper-thin wear layer, sometimes as little as 0.8mm (1/32″).

The way the log is cut determines the orientation of the grain in the wood.

Plain Sawn lumber (also known as ‘flat sawn’) is by far the most common wood used for hardwood floors. It is the most economical. On the face of a plank, the annual growth rings are spaced relatively far apart and often show the cathedral arch pattern that is common among species such as oak. The growth rings visible from the butt of the plank will usually run from parallel to the surface of the plank up to a 45 degree angle from the surface.

Quartersawn lumber costs about twice as much as plain sawn wood, and is not often used for flooring. On the face of the plank, the growth rings are relatively straight and close together. In species such as oak, the wood’s medullary rays are sometimes visible as flecks (called ray flecks). On the butt of the plank, the grain usually runs from 60% to 90% from the surface of the plank.

Rift Sawn boards are cut perpendicular to the growth rings. They are the most costly boards to produce because large triangles of waste are left from between each board. Grain lines visible on the face are relatively straight and tight; medullary rays are not usually visible. On the butt of the board, the grain is oriented 30-60 degrees to the board’s face.

Rotary Cut veneer is sometimes used as the top layer for engineered hardwood flooring. The grain pattern is broad, dramatic and erratic – the same appearance as plywood.

Wood boards are dimensionally very stable along the grain, less so against the grain. They can sometimes warp or cup ‘toward the bark’, as if the growth rings were trying to straighten. For this reason, quartersawn and rift sawn boards have greater stability than plain sawn boards.

Laminate is a flooring option that combines a realistic appearance of wood or stone with durability and economy.

Price. The price for materials ranges from about $1 per square foot up to about $11 for high-end choices.

Size. Laminate planks typically come in 4′ lengths, although products with longer size planks are available. Plank widths vary by product, 3 1/2″ to 5″ is most common. Plank thickness ranges from 7mm to 12mm; thicker boards are stronger, less apt to bend, and also reduce sound. Some manufacturers add a pad to the bottom of the plank, eliminating the need for underlayment and making it easier to install, and measurements of plank thickness need to take this into account.

Durability. The product is highly durable and scratch resistant. Good quality laminates come with a warranty against stains, fading, and moisture damage. Warranty periods range from 5 to 30 years, or even a lifetime warranty for residential use. AC Ratings are assigned to laminate flooring products to measure their durability and scratch resistance:
AC 1: Residential, Moderate traffic: Suitable for bedrooms, guest rooms
AC 2: Residential, General traffic: Suitable for living rooms, dining rooms
AC 3: Residential, Heavy traffic: Suitable for all areas
AC 4: Commercial, General traffic: Office, restaurant, boutique
AC 5: Commercial, Heavy traffic: Public buildings, department stores
Installation. It is relatively easy to install. Most laminate flooring comes in planks that interlock and that do not have to be fixed to the underlying subfloor. This “floating floor” method of installation saves considerable time and cost. Laminate flooring can be installed in many places, such as bathrooms, below ground level and over concrete, where solid hardwood flooring should not be installed.

Drawbacks. There are some drawbacks to laminate flooring. The product can’t be refinished, so when one plank is damaged it must be replaced. The gloss can’t be changed. Over time the wear layer will degrade and scratches will appear, and then the entire floor must be replaced. The printed pattern repeats with a frequency that varies by product (but may be as infrequent as every 20 planks). Laminate flooring is relatively hard and unyielding underfoot, and can sound somewhat hollow when you walk on it.

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Wear Layer. Transparent, protective wear layer, usually made from an aluminum oxide clear coat.

Decorative Layer. Thin paper printed with a high definition image of wood grain or stone.

Substrate Layer. Medium or high density fiberboard for stability and impact resistance.

Backing Layer. Plastic, paper or melamine – for moisture resistance and additional stability.

LVP Flooring Buying Guide: What to Know Before You Buy

SPC flooring is one of the most popular choices for busy homes, rentals, kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, and concrete slabs because it combines a waterproof rigid core with realistic wood-look designs. This guide explains what matters before you choose an SPC floor, including wear layer, thickness, attached pad, installation, durability, waterproof performance, and common buyer mistakes.

What is SPC flooring?

SPC stands for stone polymer composite or stone plastic composite. It is a rigid-core vinyl flooring made with a dense stone-based core, a printed design layer, a protective wear layer, and usually an attached acoustic pad. SPC is designed to look like hardwood while offering waterproof performance and strong dimensional stability.

SPC vs LVP vs WPC

SPC is a type of luxury vinyl plank, but not all LVP is SPC. Traditional LVP can be flexible, while SPC has a rigid stone-based core. WPC has a softer waterproof core that can feel warmer and more cushioned underfoot, while SPC is usually denser, more dent-resistant, and better for high-traffic areas.

Is SPC flooring waterproof?

Yes, SPC flooring is waterproof, which means the plank itself will not swell like hardwood or laminate from normal spills. It is a strong choice for kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, basements, and homes with pets. However, waterproof flooring does not mean flood-proof construction. Water can still travel under the floor, along walls, or into the subfloor if there is a major leak.

Wear layer explained

The wear layer is the clear protective surface above the printed design. It helps protect the floor from everyday wear, light scratches, traffic, and cleaning. Common wear layers include 6 mil, 12 mil, 20 mil, 22 mil, and 30 mil. For most homes, a 12 mil or 20 mil wear layer is common. For busy homes, rentals, pets, or light commercial use, 20 mil is usually a stronger choice.

Total thickness explained

SPC flooring thickness usually includes the rigid core plus the attached pad if the product has one. A thicker plank can feel more solid, but thickness alone does not tell the whole story. Wear layer, core quality, locking system, finish, plank size, and installation prep all matter. A 6 mm SPC with a good wear layer and strong locking system can perform better than a thicker floor with weaker construction.

Attached pad vs separate underlayment

Many SPC floors come with an attached acoustic pad. This can help with comfort, sound reduction, and easier installation. In many cases, you should not add extra underlayment unless the manufacturer allows it. Too much cushion under a click-lock SPC floor can cause movement, joint stress, or locking problems.

Can SPC go over concrete?

Yes, SPC is commonly installed over concrete slabs, including on-grade and below-grade areas, as long as the slab is clean, flat, dry, and properly prepared. Moisture conditions should still be checked before installation. Even waterproof flooring needs a suitable subfloor underneath it.

Best rooms for SPC flooring

• Kitchens
• Bathrooms
• Laundry rooms
• Basements
• Living rooms
• Bedrooms
• Rental properties
• Pet-friendly homes
• Light commercial spaces

SPC for pets and kids

SPC is a practical option for families with pets and kids because it handles spills, food messes, pet bowls, and daily traffic better than many wood-based floors. Choose a durable wear layer, a low-gloss finish, and a textured surface if scratch visibility is a concern.

Surface texture and finish

Texture affects both appearance and performance. Embossed textures can make SPC look more like real wood and help hide small marks better than a perfectly smooth surface. Low-gloss and matte finishes are popular because they look more natural and show fewer footprints, dust, and light scratches.

Plank width and length

Wide and long SPC planks can make a room feel larger and more modern. Narrower planks can look more traditional. When choosing plank size, think about room size, layout, furniture, and transitions between rooms. Larger planks usually need a flatter subfloor for best results.

Click-lock vs glue-down SPC

Most residential SPC flooring uses a floating click-lock system. This means the planks lock together and float over the subfloor. Glue-down vinyl is more common in some commercial spaces, but it requires more subfloor preparation and adhesive. Always follow the installation method listed for the specific product.

Common mistakes when buying SPC flooring

• Choosing only by color and ignoring wear layer
• Assuming thicker always means better
• Adding extra underlayment when it is not approved
• Skipping subfloor flatness requirements
• Forgetting moldings, stair noses, reducers, and transitions
• Not ordering enough material for waste
• Using steam mops or harsh cleaners

SPC flooring maintenance

SPC is easy to maintain with regular sweeping, vacuuming, and a damp microfiber mop. Use a neutral cleaner approved for vinyl flooring. Avoid steam mops, abrasive pads, wax, oil soaps, and harsh chemicals. Place felt pads under furniture and use walk-off mats near exterior doors.

SPC flooring buying checklist

• Is the floor truly SPC rigid core?
• What is the wear layer?
• What is the total thickness?
• Does it have an attached pad?
• Is extra underlayment allowed?
• Is it approved for your room type?
• Can it go over your subfloor?
• Are trims and stair noses available?
• Does the color look good in your home lighting?
• Do you have enough extra material for waste?

Why buy SPC flooring from Kapriz?

Kapriz Hardwood Floors offers SPC flooring, engineered hardwood, solid hardwood, laminate, bamboo, cork, moldings, trims, and stair parts through our Santa Clara showroom. You can compare colors, textures, plank sizes, and flooring types in person before making a decision. Call or text (408) 753-3220 for product availability, samples, and project help.

Final advice

The best SPC floor is not always the thickest or most expensive one. The right choice depends on your room, traffic level, subfloor, pets, moisture exposure, color preference, and installation needs. Before buying, compare the wear layer, locking system, attached pad, warranty, trims, and real sample appearance in your own lighting.