Common Solid Hardwood Flooring Questions

These answers apply to every solid hardwood floor we carry. For the color, grain, and room look of a specific floor, see that product’s own page. Solid hardwood is real wood — the answers here are different from vinyl or laminate, so it’s worth a read before you buy. Questions about a specific order? Call or text (408) 753-3220 or visit the showroom at 891 Laurelwood Rd, Suite 101, Santa Clara.

The answers below explain the general characteristics shared by solid hardwood products. Product-specific installation limits, warranty requirements, and manufacturer instructions always take precedence.

How do I estimate how much flooring I need?

Measure your room’s length × width in feet for square footage, then add 10–15% for cuts, waste, and culling — solid hardwood is a natural product graded for character, so an installer sorts out boards that don’t fit your look, which uses a little more material than a printed floor. Each product page lists coverage per carton; always round up to the next full carton.

Pro tip: many homeowners keep one unopened carton from the order set aside. If a board is ever damaged, a plank from the original production run is the best possible color match — far closer than trying to stain a new board to match an aged floor years later.

Can I install solid hardwood myself?

Physically yes, but solid hardwood is a harder DIY than click flooring — whether you should depends on your tools, subfloor, and brand’s warranty. Solid planks are nailed down over a wood subfloor, or glued down on an above-grade concrete slab, not floated — so it needs a flooring nailer or the right adhesive, a flat, dry, moisture-tested subfloor, and careful acclimation.

Most common case: DIY is allowed, but install mistakes — skipped acclimation, an uneven or damp subfloor, improper fastening, no expansion gap at the walls — void that part of the coverage. Manufacturing defects stay covered. A few brands go further and name professional installation as a condition, so any DIY voids coverage even done well. Read your brand’s warranty before you start.

Pro tip: when a warranty claim is evaluated, manufacturers commonly review whether the floor was installed according to their published instructions. Gaps, squeaks, and nail bounce are where solid-wood DIY most often falls short, so price a contractor quote first.

Is solid hardwood waterproof?

No — solid hardwood is not waterproof or water-resistant. Wipe spills immediately, because standing water and humidity can cause warping, cupping, swelling, and gaps. Keep indoor relative humidity around 35–55% and enjoy it where it belongs — dry, above-grade rooms like bedrooms, living rooms, and dining rooms, not bathrooms, laundry rooms, or basements.

The upside of real wood: because the plank is solid timber all the way down, a worn or scratched floor can be sanded flat and recoated instead of torn out. If you need flooring for a wet area, choose a waterproof type instead — we carry those too.

Will solid hardwood work in my basement?

No — solid hardwood should not go in a basement or any below-grade room. Real wood constantly trades moisture with the air and the slab beneath it, and a concrete floor below ground level releases vapor year-round even when it feels dry. That moisture makes solid planks cup, swell, and gap, which is why solid wood is rated for dry, above-grade rooms only.

What to use downstairs instead: engineered hardwood — a wood veneer over a dimensionally stable core — tolerates a below-grade slab far better and still gives a real-wood surface. Waterproof vinyl is the other sound choice for a damp or flood-prone slab. Kapriz carries both, so you can match the room to the right material rather than force wood where it can’t last.

Can solid hardwood go over a concrete slab?

Yes — but only on an on-grade or above-grade slab, never below grade. A 3/4-inch solid hardwood floor cannot be nailed directly to concrete because the fasteners need wood to hold. The usual solutions are to build a nailable plywood subfloor over the slab, or to glue the floor down with an approved moisture-barrier system. In both cases the slab must first be cured and moisture-tested, and you follow the manufacturer’s approved concrete preparation and moisture-barrier system for your specific flooring and adhesive — approved assemblies vary by brand.

One important limitation: this is for on-grade and above-grade installations only. For below-grade basements, engineered wood is the recommended choice, because concrete below grade is subject to ongoing moisture. As a C-15 licensed flooring retailer, Kapriz doesn’t perform installation, but we can refer vetted licensed installers experienced with both the subfloor assembly and the hardwood itself.

How does solid hardwood compare to engineered wood and vinyl?

Solid hardwood, engineered hardwood, and vinyl each have different strengths depending on where they’re installed. Solid is real timber, solid through its full depth, so it takes a fresh sanding and finish several times over decades — renewed in place, not resurfaced once and torn out. Genuine hardwood is generally viewed as a higher-value finish in residential real estate, and it performs best in dry rooms above ground level.

Versus engineered wood: engineered is real wood too, but a thin veneer over a plywood or HDF core. It handles humidity swings better and can sometimes go over concrete or below grade, yet its refinishing is capped by veneer depth — a 3mm-plus veneer takes two or three passes, while a 1–2mm veneer won’t refinish at all. Solid gives the most life; engineered trades some for stability.

Versus vinyl or laminate: those are waterproof and a fair call for kitchens, baths, and basements, but the grain is printed — they never sand back, and appraisers don’t count them as hardwood. Pick by the room: solid for refinishable, resale-holding wood in dry spaces; engineered or vinyl where moisture rules solid out. Kapriz stocks all three across 80+ brands, so you can compare them under one roof before deciding.

If a board gets dented or damaged, can it be fixed?

Yes — in many cases a single solid hardwood board can be repaired or replaced. A shallow dent that hasn’t broken through the wood fibers can often be sanded, filled, or even steamed out without replacing the board. Deeper gouges or crushed wood usually call for replacing that individual plank. Unlike a click-together floor, a nailed- or glued-down solid floor lets a skilled installer lift out one damaged board without tearing up the whole room.

Keeping one unopened carton from the original run gives the best color match; otherwise a replacement board may need to be stained and finished to match the aged floor. As a retail-only showroom, Kapriz doesn’t do the work, but we’re glad to point you to trusted licensed pros who handle board repairs like this.

Do you offer samples I can take home?

Yes. Visit the showroom and borrow a full-size 2×3-foot sample to take home with a refundable deposit (cash or credit card, fully refunded when the sample comes back). A large sample beats a small chip — with real wood especially, you can see how grain and tone vary board to board and how the color reads across a real area of floor. Call (408) 753-3220 first to confirm the color you want is in the showroom — sample inventory rotates and popular colors are sometimes out on loan. Please return it in the same condition; the next customer needs to see it honestly. Showroom: 891 Laurelwood Rd, Suite 101, Santa Clara.

How fast does it ship, and can you store my order?

Standard orders typically arrive at our Santa Clara warehouse in 3–7 business days. Free 4-month storage is available if your project starts later — buy now and schedule delivery when you’re ready. Local Bay Area delivery; nationwide LTL shipping; customer pickup at our Santa Clara showroom. Call or text (408) 753-3220.

What’s your return policy?

Always covered at no cost: manufacturing defects, wrong product shipped, and delivery damage documented on the receipt. Call (408) 753-3220 to report.

Why returns aren’t standard: reverse freight on a pallet runs several hundred dollars with real damage risk during transit — Kapriz carries that exposure. Rare written exceptions: 25% restocking fee plus customer pays freight. Never for opened cartons, custom orders, or discontinued runs.

Before ordering — quick checklist

Measure every room separately
Add waste (about 10–15% for solid hardwood)
Order full cartons, rounded up
Verify batch availability for the full job
Keep one spare carton for future board repairs

See it in person before you decide. Real wood reads differently under your own light, and grain and tone vary board to board. Handle a full-size sample at our Santa Clara showroom — 891 Laurelwood Rd, Suite 101, Santa Clara, CA 95054.